Showing posts with label holy land. Show all posts
Showing posts with label holy land. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 5, 2016

Yalla!!! (Arabic for let's get going, hurry up)

Call us spontaneous, we up and went to Jordan for 36 hours. Originally it wasn't part our our plan though Petra was on our bucket list but the media makes it sound like Jordan is not safe, plus the trip from Israel is pricey. Yet, once in Jerusalem and seeing all the tours offered we decided to splurge and live it up. Our only regret, not opting to pass through Wadi Rum.

After some research we booked an overnight trip to Jordan but we actually ended up getting outsourced to "Fun Time Tours", a pretty shady name if you ask me. However, it actually ended up being a very fun time, because the people on the tour were awesome. We met the family we will henceforth aspire to be one day, a family that takes 2 trips somewhere in the world every year (we don't have cushy professions, so for us it would be more like 1 trip a year/every other year). Seriously, the parents were so cool and the kids were mature, grateful, and have great social skills. I hope my future kid(s) are as cool and awesome as Isabel and Fred. Okay, I will stop gushing about this family. Other people on this tour included: Duncan (another very cool teenager) and his Mom, Marshall (doing a 9 month around the world trip), plus 3 others.

So, we get picked up at 6:30am and head out for the Jordanian border. Crossing the border, in the words of the great Kai Lokken, was a shit show. Before we could even get to the border we had to go through militarized Israeli check points and once we got to the border there were 3 more checks. Oddly, the tour company doesn't accompany you, they drop you off at the border, leaving you to figure it out for yourself, and then your guide picks you up on the Jordanian side. The result, the border people rip you off. When you arrive they expressly tell you you must pay in the Jordanian currency and only offer you a shit conversion rate because you have to pay a fee that can only by paid in Jordanian currency. So, they won't let us cross until we convert money, which we do, and when we get to the next check point, no Jordanian currency needed. Fun Time! So, if you go to Jordan, don't believe them, you don't need any Jordanian currency to pay fees to get into the country. And yes, you should visit Jordan because even with all this, it's worth it. Six check points later, we're in Jordan! Yalla! Our guide in Jordan kept saying this to our group as we sped through the different sights.

Stop #1: Jerash

Our previous stops were Rome and Greece, so we've been seeing a lot of impressive ancient stuff, but this still impressed! For me, it was visual overload, there was just so much to see. It's crazy to see how far reaching the Greek and Roman empires went.





Stop #2: Mount Nebo

This is where Moses saw the Holy Land and is believed to be buried.

You can see Jerusalem on a good day, but not this day.

Byzantine monastery rolling stone door

Stop #3: Madaba
Byzantine mosaics

The mosaic on The Church of Saint George's floor is the oldest known map of the holy land. This is the part that shows Jerusalem.



Though our tour said we would visit Amman, we merely drove past the city. A bit disappointing, but oh well. We spend the night at our hotel, pumped up to see Petra in the morning.

And now...Petra!
Petra is epic, like the Grand Canyon or Macchu Picchu level epic. We walked 16 kilometers up to the Monastery and back (just over 10 miles). The guide said you would need 3 days to really see all of Petra and to hike everywhere, so we got the chance to see a slice.
The photos don't capture the brightness of the colors or the marbling in the rocks, it's beautiful.










And then, back to Israel...which was a bumpy ride. There are speed bumps all over the highways and sometimes they are not marked so you get a little surprise. Heading back into Israel was an experience, it's a very long border, with several checks and you have to get out and show your passport at each check. At the last check Joel and I got pulled aside, which we found odd. One of the workers kept staring at Joel and as soon as we went up they set our passports aside. Then, the manager interviewed us separately, asking detailed questions that didn't seem relevant. For example, the name of the universities I attended, the name of the high school where I last worked, how much money is in my checking account...the strange thing is they didn't write anything down or verify any of my answers so I don't know why the questions were necessary. After my 10 minute interview Joel only got questioned for 2 minutes, go figure, and then they let us go through. The driver that was picking us up said not to take it personally, it's just what Israel has to do to feel safe.

Despite the overkill on security check points (mostly all from the Israeli side) this trip was totally worth it and we are so glad we went. I know that the we had the idea that Jordan was not safe from the media and different governments have travel warnings but things seemed fine in the touristy areas we visited. I guess what I am trying to say is that don't necessarily be dissuaded by what you hear, of course, don't be reckless. We talked to a few people who had recently visited and as long as you are aware and cautious then you should be fine. Just like I wouldn't walk around the Tenderloin late at night by myself I also wouldn't wander around a shady neighborhood in a foreign country. YOLO!

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More Jordan photos

Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Holy Land Christmas

After our somewhat lethargic time in Greece we were fully recharged for our visit to the Holy Lands of Israel, Palestine and Jordan. It was particularly interesting visiting these sites during the Christmas season, and made for both our most and least Christmasy Christmas ever.


In a way it was the most Christmas Christmas we could imagine having. Hard to get more pure fucking Christmas than visiting Bethlehem and seeing the supposed spot where Jesus was born.

This was the spot

Filipino pilgrims singing in the grotto where Jesus was born

We walked the Via Dolorosa, the path Jesus walked to his crucifixion. And visited Mary's and Jesus' supposed tombs (numerous sites around the world claim to have Jesus' tomb...we saw two of them in Jerusalem. The most fascinating claim is in Japan though, which declares that Jesus' brother Isukiri switched places with him on the cross and then Jesus moved to Japan, became a rice farmer, got married and had a few kids.)

Jesus' supposed Tomb #1, in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Jesus' supposed Tomb #2, the Garden Tomb

Tomb of the Virgin Mary, Church of the Sepulchre of Saint Mary

But despite all of this very CHRISTmas Christmas we kept forgetting it was Christmas. Was that there were hardly any Christmas trees? No Christmas songs? The lack of Santa's? Or that all of these Jews and Muslims around us don't celebrate Christmas? Don't get me wrong: we had an amazing Christmastimeholyland2015, but it was strange experiencing this time of the year without so many of these things that we have come to associate with Christmas.

Let's go back to the sites:
As you would imagine Jerusalem was an amazing city. I am not a religious man but you cannot help but be overwhelmed with the religious power and importance of the area and it's endless sites. The old city is divided into quarters: Armenian, Jewish, Muslim, and the Christian quarter. Its a wonderful place to walk and get lost in. Outside of the old walled city is the modern Jerusalem, with Israel to the west and Palestine to the east.

The man is Jewish, the Dome Muslim, and the church Christian, but all their satellite dishes are the same

Western (Wailing) Wall

Dome of the Rock

Church of the Holy Sepulchre - the most amazing church I've seen and will surely ever see

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Damascus Gate to Old Town Jerusalem

We took a bus out to Bethlehem one day, which isn't too noteworthy aside from the several religious sites and the amazing shawarma that we had. Bethlehem is in Palestine, so the bus has to stop at a border checkpoint before re-entering Israel. At these borders all of the Palestinians have to get off the bus to stand in line to have their identification checked by two teenage members of the Israeli Army with automatic guns. The soldiers board the bus to check the identification of everyone on the bus...and do the same for the Palestinians except they have to get off the bus. This and the massive wall that was built around the disputed territories were incredible sad things to see.

Christmas decorations and Mosque of Omar from Manger Square

Church of the Nativity, built on the birthplace of JC

Aside from visiting Bethlehem we also made it out to see Masada and the Dead Sea a couple hours outside of Jerusalem.

Masada is an ancient fortress built on a plateau in the Judaean Desert. It was first built around 35 BCE and was the last hold out before the Romans took the region. Instead of surrendering to the Romans (who had already massacred hundreds of Jews in the region) it is said that the 960 Jews committed mass suicide. Later Byzantine Monks lived here and established a church.

You can walk up or take the cable car, of course, we walked up





Then we stopped off to float around in the Dead Sea. The two of us, along with a very nice Hong Kong couple and a German woman all shared a ride to Ein Gedi, which we read was the Dead Sea's second most popular beach. After we got dropped off we noticed that we were the only people around and that, oh, most of the area was fenced off. Sinkholes! Too much of the groundwater has been getting diverted out and apparently sinkholes have become a major problem and has forced the state to close off the beach and much of the area. But we were still able to find our way down to a sad trash covered beach and go floating:


Dead Sea background info: the Dead Sea is actually a lake and is the lowest place on earth at 1407 feet below sea level. It is also one of the world's saltiest body of water and is so salty that you can't sink in it. The water is thus incredibly slimy and the rocks are sharp since they are covered in salt crystals. It's a surreal place and these pictures only start to convey the incredible weirdness of it all. And the closed off ghost beach that we found ourselves in only added to this weirdness.


Ghost beach parking lot

Floating barrel - the later it got in the day the more the sky and water seemed to blur together



Tel Aviv was far less interesting than any of these other places. Really it's just a ordinary city that likes to think of itself as a super modern and progressive place (hey Tel Aviv your sanitized and very-not-people-friendly modernist bs architecture doesn't make you a modern place!). Maybe compared to the rest of Israel and its neighbors it is, but the city is full of itself and is trying way to hard and failing. It calls itself "Nonstop City" (seriously this is their slogan...watch out NYC!), oh but then everything shuts down for Shabbat at sundown on Friday and doesn't start up again until sundown on Saturday. Modern? Non-stop? Stores say 24/7 but that actually means everyday but Shabbat. Need to get to the airport on Friday or Saturday? Take a $40 cab ride, because transit shuts down at 3pm and doesn't start up for another 24 hours. Sucks if you are a secular Jew or Muslim or Christian or whatever! Nonstop my ass! Progressive my ass!


the 1950s are alive in Tel Aviv!

My thoughts exactly!

We also had a brief visit into Jordan, but we'll be posting something about that next!

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Jerusalem / Tel Aviv pictures
Bethlehem / Masada / Dead Sea pictures